Have to say that boring qualifications and semis with lot of climbers that reached the TOP did a different job in finale. Finalists were more intense, because they knew that the time will be the most important fact. We could see different approach, different tactic and we could saw how top world climbers are dealing with time limit stress. Most of the climbers were having watches (on wrist or on a harness) for timing their climbing.
The absolute winner of this really interesting finale is Jain Kim. She was the only one who reached the top in IFSCwc Perm only 5 seconds before 8 minute time limit. Please take a look of her climbing. She started the timing when she started climbing. On the half part of the wall she checked how much time left and didn’t look nervous. Her movement was calm and all the moves were precise. 30 seconds before the time limit she was 2 holds below the top. Than she takes the rest, check time and she spent another 10 seconds for resting and analyzing the last two moves. Then she just walk up to the top and clip the rope into the top anchor. Take a look how calm she was and how fast she was.
In MAN category in our opinion Hyunbin Min (KOR) showed us a really good climbing. He was fighting till the end with almost no mistakes. Again we saw (Korean) determination smooth movement. If we check his climbing. he was not bothering with the time, he just want to TOP out the route. OK yes Ramon wins the IFSC Climbing World Cup Perm 2013 but he did a big mistake when his foot slipped. Otherwise he would reach the TOP.
Now let’s review Domen Skofic and Mina Markovic.
Domen started really well but on the compression section of the route he make an big mistake with heel hook. That costs him a good result.
Mina started fast, faster then we are us to it. Time pressure made her to climb faster. In roof she just didn’t find the right position of hands and foots. Taking to much time on yellow volume and after that she was to short (not concentrated) for the next move. Despite that she was climbing faster then usually she ended on 4th place (counting the time of ascent).
Some other interesting parts of the finals.
- Romain Desgranges was climbing without chalk bag.
- Jacob Schubert talking about his tactic, being fast or just climb and reach the top.
2. Jakob Schubert 43+: Magdalena Röck 32+
3. Min Hyuinbin 37+: Momoka Oda 32+
4. Dmitry Fakiryanov 35+: Mina Makovic 32+
5. Romain Desgranges 31: Helene Janicot 32+
Big mistake by Domen Skofic (bad heel hook). Grading of the final routes: WOMAN 8b, MAN 8b+/8c
Watch finals LIVE.
End of semifinal. Check the results: WOMAN and MAN. Most of us was talking about qualifications routes being to easy. We can listen the short explanation by Matt, official route-setter in Perm. Man route in semifinal was graded something around 8b or 8b+, for woman hard 8a+.
Slovenia has Mina Markovic and Domen Skofic in final. 5 hours till finals.
Semifinal did already started but due to technical difficulties there is no LIVE streaming at the moment.
Looks like the qualification routes are too easy….
Saturday, September 28
8.00 a.m. warming up wall will be open
9.30 start qualification route 1 male,female(Lead)
13.00 Opening ceremony
13 30 start qualification route 2 male,female (Lead)
17.00 practice on the wall (speed)
18.00 qualification round male, female (speed)
19.30 1/8 final male,female (speed)
20.00 1/4 final,1/2f final, Final (speed)
21.00 flowers ceremony (speed)
Sunday, September 29
8.00 isolation zone will be open
10.00 isolation zone will be closed
10.15 observation of the routes male,female (semifinal)
10.30 start semi-final male,female
16.00 isolation zone will be open
17.45 isolation zone will be closed
18.00 presentation of finalists
18.20 observation of the routes
18.30 final female lead
19.15 final male lead
20.00 award ceremonyr
At this moment we can watch LIVE qualification round two. At Perm we have 25 female climbers and 12 of them are from Russia. Same number of Russian climbers in Man category.
All four Slovenian climbers (Mina Markovic, Tina Sustersic, Klemen Becand and Domen Skofic) topped the qualification route.
In Q1 we have 18 tops for the men and 17 for the women….wow. Same story is repeating in Q2. But that is something normal, athletes have to prepare their body for semi-final, final.